Coin, Hebden Bridge: Review

Lunch at Coin, newly opened in Hebden Bridge, ensures that this year’s business of eating out concludes on a high. In this bare-bricked and big windowed space we first knock back a plate of choux chips – think delicate and dainty savoury madeleines but full of fromage flavour – that bring to mind that school dinner classic the cheese pie, but in bite-size form. More refined here, of course, but still.

There are mushroom croquettes, which could be spongy and grease-laden but at Coin are crisp and airy little numbers. A verdant salsa verde, packed with punchy mint and other herbs of goodness, is a two-fingered salute to the dreich greyness outside. Flog this gear in bottles and sign me up for a lifetime supply.

A potato fondue is described as being part spud, part loads-of-tasty-dairy; a coming together that could never be a bad thing. We dunk our toast and kid ourselves that this is a healthy and hearty soup, fortifying us for the showery journey home, rather than an indulgent bowl of cheese and buttery gloop. Albeit a classy gloop that’s been expertly put together. We convince ourselves so enthusiastically that extra toast is required.

There’s also a plate of Very Good Meat – my title not theirs – featuring those cuts that have an appealing whiff of the farmyard or field about them, and delivered with a brief backstory of who did what to the beast. A coarse wedge of Pate de Campagne, made in house, is well deserving of its place on the piggy platter.

You could just call in to Coin for a brief pitstop, necking a plate or two with a couple of drinks from an inviting menu (we flatten a brace of beers, a bottle of crisp Riesling and, to delay our exit, excellent glasses of a crunchy Brouilly) before being on your merry way. There are no reservations – you can just scoot in.

But I’ll be doing the opposite of that on my return visit. A long lunch job, I reckon. Clocking the lot, dish by dish.