Culatello di Zibello!

SIMON RICHARDSON - LEEDS CONFIDENTIAL / LUNATIC ON THE GRASS

Hebden has always been a bit of an oddity for me. Huge swathes of middle-class tourists saturate the streets during school holidays and on (sunny) weekends, but while the town has some fabulous places to get beery, it hasn't quite met expectations on the food and wine fronts. Until now. 

Coin's wine list is not only comprehensive but interesting, and the small plates are inventive but affordable, fancy and accessible. Frankly, it's exactly what Hebden needs. I enjoyed an incredibly rainy run over the fells to meet my wife the other week and nothing warmed my (somewhat shrivelled) cockles more than Culatello di Zibello. It comes from the thigh of an adult pig and is then cured before being stuffed inside a pig's bladder and left to age for a minimum of 10 months. The impossibly thin slices look delicate - almost frail - but the taste smacks you around the face, intoxicating you further with every bite. It's like a pig made love to a sentient blue cheese and deposited its offspring onto your plate. Mind-blowing.